Slide-outs
A guided diagnosis for RV techs. Each step is a check, a reading or a question.
- Which slide system is under the room? Look at the mechanism. In-wall: gear columns in the side walls. Through-frame: the room rides on tubes that run through the coach frame. Cable: cables and pulleys at the corners. Hydraulic: hoses and a cylinder under the room.
- What is the schwintek doing? Pick what you see.
- What is the rack-and-pinion doing? Pick what you see.
- What is the cable slide doing? Pick what you see.
- Describe the slide Pick what you see. Look from inside at the side walls, then under the coach at the frame.
- One side stops: push test Lippert's first test for one side not moving. Have a helper hold the switch while you push the stuck side in the direction it should go.
- Schwintek: no sound Check the battery, the fuse, and the switch. Then meter 12V at the controller. Schwintek controllers are behind a panel near the slide. Expect: About 12.0 V or more at the controller
- Schwintek: motor spins, no travel The motor spins but the room does not move. Look at the gear and the rail. Expect: Gear teeth engaged in the rail
- Schwintek: binds or stops Check the room for an obstruction and the rails for debris or damage. Schwintek rooms are sensitive to being out of level. Expect: Clear rails, no obstruction
- Schwintek: noise A grinding or clicking noise is usually a stripped gear or a loose motor.
- Rack: motor spins, no travel The motor spins but the room does not move. Check the pinion and the rack. Expect: Pinion teeth engaged in the rack
- Rack: no sound Check the battery, the fuse, and the switch. Meter 12V at the motor. Expect: About 12.0 V or more
- Rack: binds or stops Check for an obstruction and for a dry or damaged rack. Expect: Clear rack, no obstruction
- Rack: one side lags A lagging side points to a broken shear pin or a loose drive shaft.
- Cable: damage A loose, frayed or broken cable must be replaced before the room is moved. BAL Accu-Slide cables are sold as a set per corner.
- Cable: binds or crooked A crooked room points to uneven cable tension or a broken pulley. BAL spec: equal tension on all four corners.
- Cable: motor spins, no travel The motor spins but the room does not move. Check the drive and the cables.
- Cable: no sound Check the battery, the fuse, and the switch. Meter 12V at the motor. Expect: About 12.0 V or more
- Find where the 12v stops The dead motor gets no 12V. Work back from the motor to the controller with the switch held each time. Expect: Battery voltage at the controller output for each motor while the switch is held
- Is the motor shaft broken? Gear and racks look good but the room doesn't move. Unplug that motor and push the room on that side.
- Is it the shear pin? Mark the motor output shaft and the cross shaft (or the coupler between them) with a paint pen. Have a helper bump the switch for one second while you watch the marks.
- Stalling motor: amps and volts The motor quits because it's working too hard or getting too little voltage. Clamp each motor's power lead while the room runs and compare the two sides. Then meter volts at the controller while it runs. Expect: Both motors draw about the same. Controller stays above about 11 V while running.
- Move that side by hand Unplug both motors at the controller (that releases the brakes). Push and pull the stuck side by hand.
- Disengage the motor and try again Remove the motor retention screw near the top of the column, bend back the wipe seal, and lift the motor about 2 in until it disengages. Put the screw back to hold it up. Now push the room.
- 12v at that motor's plug? Unplug the dead motor at the top of the column. Meter the red and black wires in the harness plug while a helper holds the switch. The polarity flips between IN and OUT. Expect: About battery voltage on red and black while the switch is held
- Do the status leds light when you press the switch? Watch the controller board while a helper presses IN, then OUT.
- Slow on both sides Both motors slow together points to supply voltage or a room that drags everywhere. Meter at the controller while it runs.
- Code red 2: battery dropout (fell below 6 v while running) Battery dropout (fell below 6 V while running). Expect: Do this first: The battery or wiring is too weak for the load. Charge, fix voltage drop, test the battery under load.
- Code red 3: low battery (under 8 v at start) Low battery (under 8 V at start). Expect: Do this first: Charge the battery. Check the supply wire and ground.
- Code red 4: high battery (over 18 v) High battery (over 18 V). Expect: Do this first: Check the charger or converter. Disconnect extra chargers.
Causes and repairs
Schwintek motor failed
The motor gets 12V at its plug but doesn't run.
Tools: Hand tools
Replace the motor with the same part number. Resync after: run the room fully out and hold until both motors shut off on their own, back in 1 to 2 in, repeat 2 or 3 times, then run fully out and fully in. When they're in sync both motors shut off together.
No 12v to the slide
The slide has no power. Check the battery, the fuse, and the switch.
Tools: multimeter
Meter the fuse, the switch, and the feed to the controller or motor. Fix the open.
Controller or switch
Power is there but the slide does not respond. Schwintek controllers fail more often than the switch.
Tools: multimeter
Meter the switch, then the controller output. Replace the failed part.
Stripped gear or rail
A stripped gear or a worn rail lets the motor spin without moving the room. Schwintek plastic gears strip when a bound room is forced.
Tools: hand tools
Replace the gear or the rail. Check the other side too, then re-sync.
Obstruction or debris
Something is blocking the room or the rails.
Tools: hand tools
Clear the obstruction and the debris. Retest slowly.
Out of sync or out of square
The racks are clear but the room binds, goes out crooked, or won't seal evenly.
Tools: Helper
Resync: run the room fully out and hold until the motors shut off on their own. Back in 1 to 2 in. Repeat 2 or 3 times. Then fully out and fully in, always letting the motors shut off themselves. In sync, both motors stop at the same time. If one side still stops short, check that side's racks for a skipped tooth or debris and the room for dragging at the opening.
Stripped pinion or rack
A stripped pinion or rack lets the motor spin without moving the room.
Tools: hand tools
Replace the pinion or the rack. Check the other side too.
Motor failed
The motor gets 12V but does not run.
Tools: multimeter
Replace the motor with the same part.
Rack dry or damaged
A dry or damaged rack binds the room.
Tools: hand tools
Clean the rack with a brush and degreaser, then lube with a dry silicone or PTFE dry lube (wet grease holds grit). Replace a rack with broken or chipped teeth.
Drive shaft loose
A loose drive shaft lets one side lag.
Tools: hand tools
Tighten the drive shaft coupling and retest.
Replace the cable set
A frayed or broken cable must be replaced before the room is moved. BAL sells corner cable kits.
Tools: hand tools
Run or crank the room out until the cables are slack and support it. Replace the cable for that corner (BAL sells corner kits) routed the same way over the pulleys. Then tension: tighten the take-up bolt on each corner until all four cables feel the same and the room pulls in square. Check by measuring corner to corner across the room: the two diagonals should match.
Adjust cable tension
Uneven or loose cables make the room crooked or weak. BAL adjustment is at the corner take-up bolts.
Tools: hand tools
Tighten or loosen the take-up bolt at each corner until all four cables feel the same tension. Run the room in and out, then measure both diagonals across the room: they should match. Retighten the jam nuts.
Pulley broken or seized
A broken or seized pulley makes the room bind.
Tools: hand tools
Replace the pulley and re-tension the cables.
Cable off the pulley
A cable that has jumped the pulley stops the room.
Tools: hand tools
Re-route the cable and re-tension it. Check why it jumped.
Drive gear or chain stripped
A stripped drive gear or chain lets the motor spin without moving the room.
Tools: hand tools
Replace the gear or chain and retest.
Cleared
Cleared. Cycle the room fully in and out twice and watch both ends before you sign it off.
Write down what you did and the reading that proved it.
Weak supply to the controller
In-wall controllers run down to about 8 V, but under 11 V they draw more amps and stall. The fix is the battery or the feed, not the motor.
Tools: Multimeter, battery load tester
Charge the battery and load-test it. Then do a voltage-drop test with the room running: battery + to controller +, and controller - to battery -. Fix the side with more than 0.5 V of drop. The controller needs a 30 A fuse at minimum.
Broken motor shaft
A side that moves a few inches freely by hand has a broken motor shaft or gearbox. The motor spins but can't hold the column.
Tools: Hand tools, helper
Replace the motor on that side. Match the part number on the old motor (Lippert in-wall motors: 229466 standard, 287298 high torque 500:1, 236575 300:1). Then resync: run the room fully out and hold until both motors shut off on their own, back in 1 to 2 in, repeat 2 or 3 times, then run fully out and fully in.
Motor gearbox locked
With the motor lifted off the column the room moves, so the motor's gearbox is the fault.
Tools: Hand tools
Replace the motor (match the old part number), drop it back into the column, reinstall the retention screw and resync the room.
Column or room bound
The room won't move with the motor out of the way, so the column racks or the room itself are bound.
Tools: Hand tools, floor jack, 2x4
Check all four racks for debris and bent teeth. Look for the room dragging at the top or bottom of the opening. A damaged column gets replaced: run the room out until about 1/4 is left inside, carry its weight with a jack, wedge a 2x4 between the T-molding and the room top, unplug the motor, then remove the column. Record the rack spacing on the new column before you pull its shipping angles.
Broken wire in the harness
The controller sends 12V but it doesn't reach the motor. The break is in the harness or flex loom, usually where it moves with the room.
Tools: Multimeter, solder, heat shrink
Ohm each wire end to end with both ends unplugged and flex the harness while you watch the meter. Repair with soldered, heat-shrunk splices, or replace the harness section.
Controller motor channel failed
The controller has power and the switch works, but it puts nothing out to that motor.
Tools: Multimeter
Swap the two motor plugs at the controller. If the dead output follows the controller side, replace the controller. Lippert 211852 replaces Rev B, Rev C-1 and Rev C-2 boards. 326876 (8 A) does NOT replace other versions.
Bad pins at the motor plug
12V reaches the plug but not through it. Spread, pushed-back or corroded pins drop the connection.
Tools: Pick, contact cleaner, flashlight
Look into both halves with a light. Push each pin back in until it locks, tighten spread sockets, clean corrosion. Replace the connector if a pin is burned. Plug in and test.
Switch or switch wiring
The board isn't seeing the switch in one or both directions.
Tools: Multimeter
Unplug and re-plug the switch plug on the board. Still nothing: pull the wall switch and check continuity on each position, then ohm the wires to the board. Replace the switch or repair the wire.
Controller not driving the motors
The board sees the switch but doesn't run the motors, with good power and free mechanics.
Tools: Multimeter
Check 12V at the board's motor outputs with the switch held. Nothing out with good input: replace the controller (211852 replaces Rev B, C-1 and C-2). In the meantime, the electronic override brings the room in: press the mode button 6 times quickly, press a 7th time and hold about 5 seconds, then use the wall switch.
High battery voltage
The controller saw more than 18 V. Something is overcharging.
Tools: Multimeter
Meter at the battery with the converter on, then off. Over about 14.8 V on a lead-acid bank is a converter or charger fault. Disconnect extra chargers (solar, DC-DC, inverter-charger) one at a time to find it.
Motor or wiring shorted
The controller saw a short on a motor circuit.
Tools: Multimeter
Unplug one motor at a time and run the switch. The code goes away when the shorted side is unplugged. Then ohm that motor's red and black leads to each other and to ground, and check its harness for a pinch or chafe.
No hall signal from a motor
The most common in-wall code. The controller isn't getting counts from the motor's sensor, so it stops to protect the room.
Tools: Flashlight, multimeter
The green blinks tell you which motor. Check that motor's plug at the top of the column and at the board for pushed-back pins. Look for a pinched or broken harness, especially at the column top and where it flexes. If the wiring is good, replace the motor.
Hall power shorted to ground
Short in the sensor power on one motor. Lippert says replace the motor.
Tools: Hand tools
Use the green blinks to find which motor. Unplug it: if the code clears, replace that motor, then resync.
Actuator motor failed
12V reaches the motor and it doesn't run. The motor isn't field serviceable.
Tools: 3/4 in socket, hand tools
Bring the room in with the manual override (disconnect the battery, 3/4 in socket on the hex at the top of the actuator, clockwise retracts). Replace the actuator with the same part number from its label.
Open between the switch and motor
The switch puts out 12V but the motor doesn't get it.
Tools: Multimeter, crimper, heat shrink
Ohm each motor wire switch to motor with the battery off, and flex the run where it goes under the coach. Repair the break. Motor wire is 10 gauge minimum: don't patch it with smaller wire.
No feed to the switch
The switch has no power. The feed is protected by a 30 A auto-reset breaker.
Tools: Multimeter
Meter both studs of the breaker to ground: 12V in and none out means it's tripped or failed (an auto-reset breaker that keeps cycling means there's a short or a stall). Then check the ground: Lippert says over 90% of electrical problems are bad grounds. Run an independent ground wire back to the battery with a star washer.
Clutch slipping at full travel is normal
The clutch slips when the stop cans hit the frame. Let go of the switch when the room stops.
If it clutches out before the seal is tight, adjust the stop cans: loosen the 3/4 in lock nut outside the can (1-1/8 in wrench), screw the can in or out, retighten. Set every can the same amount.
Stop can jammed in the frame opening
The can is wedged in the frame, so the actuator can't move the room and the clutch slips.
Tools: 3/4 in socket, 1-1/8 in wrench
1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Put a 3/4 in socket on the hex at the top of the actuator and crank a turn or two the opposite way from where it jammed, to take the load off (clockwise retracts, counterclockwise extends). 3) Loosen the 3/4 in lock nut with a 1-1/8 in wrench and back the can off the frame. 4) Replace a can that's mushroomed or cracked, and check the tube and frame opening for damage. 5) Reset the seal: run the room in, turn the can until the seal compresses evenly, retighten the lock nut. Check the other cans too: they set the seal together. 6) Reconnect and cycle the room fully in and out.
Drive bracket nuts loose
Lippert's through-frame manual calls these out first for 'motor runs, room doesn't move'. Loose nuts let the actuator move without carrying the room.
Tools: 1-1/16 in and 1-1/8 in wrenches
Run the room to a stop. Tighten the jam nuts and the nylock nuts at the front drive bracket. Cycle the room fully in and out. A nylock nut that spins freely has lost its grip: replace it.
Voltage drop to the motor
The motor can't make torque on a weak feed, so the clutch slips early.
Tools: Multimeter
With the motor running, meter battery + to motor + and motor - to battery -. Fix the side reading more than 0.5 V. Lippert: over 90% of these are bad grounds. Run an independent ground to the battery with a star washer. Motor wire is 10 gauge minimum. Charge the battery before you judge it.
Actuator clutch or gears worn
The room cranks freely and the motor gets full voltage, but the clutch still slips mid travel.
Tools: Hand tools
Replace the actuator (the motor and clutch aren't field serviceable). Match the part number on the actuator label. Reset the stop cans and seal after.
Obstruction
Something is in the room's path.
Tools: Flashlight
Check inside (furniture, open cabinets, carpet, small items under the floor edge) and outside (trees, posts, a folded flap seal, debris on the slide roof). Clear it and run the room slowly.
Room height out of adjustment
The room drags on the floor or the frame instead of riding on its tubes.
Tools: Hand tools
At each bracket, loosen the 2 carriage bolts and the jam nut, then turn the vertical adjust bolt to raise the room off the floor. Do both sides the same, retighten, and check the seal top and bottom.
Dry gear packs
Dry gear packs squeak and drag.
Tools: Dry silicone spray, hand tools
Loosen the gear pack bolts, apply dry silicone to the drive shaft lube points only (not the gear teeth), retighten and cycle the room several times.
Keep going on slides and leveling
Learn it
- How a slide room is built and carried
- Identify the slide system in a minute
- The in-wall controller: versions and fault codes
- Ball-screw actuator slides: clutch, stops, diagnosis
- Rack and pinion drive: electrical diagnosis
Prove it
- Slide stalls halfway out
- Slide comes in crooked
- Hydraulic slide crawls and stops
- One side of the slide won't move
- Auto-level leaves it crooked
See it in 3D
Codes and specs
- Slides: schwintek
- Lippert in-wall and through-frame slides
- Leveling: ground control
- Lippert 5th wheel hydraulic auto level