Slides: schwintek
What it is
Lippert Schwintek in-wall slide: two motors, one on each side, with a controller. The controller counts motor turns through hall sensors to keep both sides together. It needs a 30 A fuse at minimum.
5 checks first
No obstruction: outside (tree, post, car), inside (luggage, furniture, open cabinet)
Battery at the controller above about 11 V (it can work down to about 8 V but draws more amps)
30 A fuse good. If a new fuse blows right away, the wiring to the controller is shorted
Direction switch lights the status LEDs in both extend and retract
Gear racks clear of debris (check all four)
Status LEDs
GREEN blinks tell which motor: 1 blink = motor 1, 2 blinks = motor 2. RED blinks tell the fault, below.
RED 2|Battery dropout (fell below 6 V while running)|The battery or wiring is too weak for the load. Charge, fix voltage drop, test the battery under load.
RED 3|Low battery (under 8 V at start)|Charge the battery. Check the supply wire and ground.
RED 4|High battery (over 18 V)|Check the charger or converter. Disconnect extra chargers.
RED 5|Excessive motor current|Binding, a stall, or a failed motor. One side stalling again and again points to that motor or its gear.
RED 6|Motor short circuit|The motor or its wiring is shorted. Unplug one motor at a time to find which.
RED 8|Hall signal not present|The sensor is not sending counts. Usually the wiring or plug to that motor.
RED 9|Hall power shorted to ground|Short in the hall power wire. Usually wiring or plug.
To clear a code: operate the extend or retract switch. That resets the board. Operate it again for normal use.
Only one side moves
Push the stuck side while someone holds the switch. If it moves with help: the motor stalls, so check for binding and low voltage. If not, try to move that side by hand.
Moves a few inches freely by hand: the motor shaft is broken, replace the motor. Will not move by hand: the motor is stalling, so check the racks for debris and the voltage at the motor.
Disengage a motor: if the slide moves by hand, the gearbox is bad, replace the motor. If it still will not move, the drive is bad, replace the slide unit.
LEDs do not light with either switch direction: unplug and replug the switch plug on the board. Still nothing: bad switch or wiring. LEDs light but nothing moves: board failure.
Manual override 1: electronic override (board rev C1 and newer)
Find the board. Press the mode button 6 times quickly
Press a 7th time and hold about 5 seconds
Red and green LEDs flash to confirm. Release the button
Inside the coach, use the normal switch to retract the room
Manual override 2: unplug the motors and push
Unplug both motors from the board (releases the brake)
Push or pull the room in, keeping both sides even (big rooms need helpers)
When fully in, plug both motors back in (applies the brake for travel)
Manual override 3: disengage the motors
Remove the motor retention screw near the top of each column. Bend back the wipe seal. Pull the motor up about 2 inches until it disengages. Put the retention screw back to hold it. Do both sides, push the room in evenly, then re-engage the motors and travel-lock the room.
Never jump or charge the battery from the controller connections. Do it at the battery.
Slides can crush. Keep hands and people clear. Re-sync or re-learn per the maker after any power loss or repair.
A clamp meter on each motor's power lead shows its amps live. A motor that draws more than its twin points to binding or a bad motor.
Keep going on slides and leveling
Learn it
- How a slide room is built and carried
- Identify the slide system in a minute
- The in-wall controller: versions and fault codes
- Ball-screw actuator slides: clutch, stops, diagnosis
- Rack and pinion drive: electrical diagnosis
Prove it
- Slide stalls halfway out
- Slide comes in crooked
- Hydraulic slide crawls and stops
- One side of the slide won't move
- Auto-level leaves it crooked
See it in 3D
Codes and specs
- Lippert in-wall and through-frame slides
- Leveling: ground control
- Lippert 5th wheel hydraulic auto level