Fridge control boards and codes
Board codes point you to the system that failed, not the part. Use the code to know where to test.
The short version
- Look up the code for that exact model. Codes differ between brands and models.
- Most codes mean no flame, no AC, low DC, or a sensor fault. Test that system before blaming the board.
- Low 12V can cause strange board behavior and false codes. Check voltage first.
- Replace the board only after the inputs it needs check good.
On the job
- Read the code before you reset anything. Norcold: no FL flame, no co cooling, dc LO/HI, AC LO/HI, HE heater open, dr door, Sr sense circuit.
- Prove the circuit the code points at with a meter: volts at the board, ohms across the part.
- Norcold power board reset for no co: 12V on, jumper P1 pin 15 to the board ground lug 10 to 15 s until it clicks.
- Dometic: the check light means three failed tries. Off and on resets it. Then find out which try failed.
Numbers
- Norcold thermistor: about 10 kΩ at 75°F, 16 kΩ at 50°F, 31 kΩ at 32°F
- Norcold fuses: F1 5 A DC, F2 30 A DC heater (3-way), F3 5 A AC
Try it on a service call
Put the lesson to work on a hands-on troubleshooting case.
Keep going on refrigerators
Learn it
- Absorption fridges (gas/electric)
- 12V compressor and residential fridges
- Absorption fridge won't run on gas
- Absorption fridge won't run on electric
- Is it the cooling unit?
Prove it
- Fridge won't run on gas
- Fridge is warm after unplugging
- Fridge works on gas, not electric
- Fridge won't cool on anything
- Freezer's fine, fridge is warm