Absorption fridge won't run on gas
Gas mode needs 12V for the board, LP at the right pressure, a good spark, a clean burner and a flame sensor that proves it lit.
The short version
- Confirm 12V at the board while it tries to light. Low voltage causes a lot of no-gas complaints.
- Check LP pressure and that other LP appliances work.
- Watch for the spark, then look at the burner and flue for rust flakes or a spider web blocking the flame.
- If it lights then goes out, look at the flame sensor (thermocouple or electrode) and its connection.
On the job
- Light the stove. No gas there is supply, not the fridge.
- Watch the burner on a gas start: spark for up to 30 s. Flame should be light blue, steady, sharp cones.
- No spark: electrode gap 1/8 to 3/16 in, ceramic, lead, board. Spark no flame: orifice, burner tube, 12V at the valve coil, 11 in WC.
- Lights then drops: flame sense, electrode and ground. Clean the burner slots with a file and the bore with a brush. Never tool the orifice.
- Reset after three failed tries by turning the fridge off and on.
Numbers
- Gas valve coil (Norcold): 79 to 85 Ω, 12V during the trial
- LP at the fridge: 10.5 to 11.5 in WC
- Trial for ignition: 30 s, then gas lockout
Shop tip
Clean the burner and flue first on any gas complaint. It fixes a surprising number of them.
Try it on a service call
Put the lesson to work on a hands-on troubleshooting case.
Keep going on refrigerators
Learn it
- Absorption fridges (gas/electric)
- 12V compressor and residential fridges
- Absorption fridge won't run on electric
- Is it the cooling unit?
- Fridge control boards and codes
Prove it
- Fridge won't run on gas
- Fridge is warm after unplugging
- Fridge works on gas, not electric
- Fridge won't cool on anything
- Freezer's fine, fridge is warm