Absorption fridge won't run on electric
Electric mode uses a 120V heating element. Check power, the element and the board's output.
The short version
- Confirm 120V at the fridge outlet and that the board is calling for electric.
- With power off, check the heating element resistance against the spec on its label or the manual.
- If the element is good but gets no power, look at the board output and its fuse.
- If it works on gas but not electric, the cooling unit is fine.
On the job
- 120 VAC at the fridge outlet (often on the GFCI chain), then at the power board, then at the element.
- Power off. Ohm the element: Norcold 300 W is 38 to 53 Ω; a 325 W Dometic about 44 Ω. O.L is open.
- Check the board's AC fuse (Norcold F3, 5 A) and its clips for heat.
- Voltage and element good, no heat: the board's AC relay. Replace the board.
Numbers
- AC range: 108 to 132 V
- Norcold 300 W element: 38 to 53 Ω
- DC control range: 10.5 to 15.4 V
Try it on a service call
Put the lesson to work on a hands-on troubleshooting case.
Keep going on refrigerators
Learn it
- Absorption fridges (gas/electric)
- 12V compressor and residential fridges
- Absorption fridge won't run on gas
- Is it the cooling unit?
- Fridge control boards and codes
Prove it
- Fridge won't run on gas
- Fridge is warm after unplugging
- Fridge works on gas, not electric
- Fridge won't cool on anything
- Freezer's fine, fridge is warm